The Sanders Family Travels Abroad for a Year

Good to have you along for our year long adventures in Ireland and other countries. We are working, playing, and schooling amongst our neighbors in Carna, Ireland.

Please use control + to enlarge the blog, the photos look much better this way. As of March 2011, google has improved the presentation of the blog, the photos show much better now.

Carna is along the west coast on Ireland, a little over an hour's drive from Gallway. It is a pretty rural area, and it is rugged and beautiful, physically and culturally.

We will keep you updated with our life, as we settle into a coastal home and integrate into the community. Greg is working in a Family Practice clinic, mentored by Gerard Hooke, whom Greg worked with a few years ago, for many years, in Arlington, Washington state. Gerard and his wife Amanda have settled into this area a few years ago, and are beloved by the community. The clinic was started by Michael Casey, who worked here solo for many years. He now has 3 clinics in Galway county, where he shares his time.

Our 3 children are in the local schools,where the classes are taught in the Irish language, with some English as well. We are exploring Ireland, on weekend drives. Also, periodically we are hopping over to the mainland Europe, for longer adventures.



Thursday, May 26, 2011

Royals and Presidents




Today, we have been having wild winds, sun and pelting horizontal rains. It was a special day, as President Obama came to Ireland, and I saw my first rainbow in months.

President Obama came to this small island of 4 million people today. It was a great day for the Irish. They gave him good coming out in the 1 block town of Monegall, where his distant grandfather was born. He met a cousin, tried a pint of Guinness in the local Pub (great political opportunity ad and one survey estimated that his suds-mustache picture taken at Ollie Hayes’s pub in Monegall, is worth about $200 million to Guinness), and shook hands with many of the town members. The weather was wild, with up to 90 mph winds experienced here on the west coast, and similar wind speeds across Ireland.

Then, he flew to Dublin, and gave one of his great inspirational speeches to the crowd, speaking some words in Irish, apologizing for his pronunciations saying ''poor Irish is better than clever English''.  Justine and Stephen left here at 0730 today, travelling 4.5 hours by bus, then walking the rest of the way, to arrive at 2PM, wait in line for hours, get screened, and get into the outdoor square where Obama gave his speech. They were one of the last of 25K that got in, another 50k were left out. The atmosphere was electric, with an energetic crowd. U2 couldn't make it, as they were touring the USA. There were other Irish bands that played. Justine said it was an amazing speech, quite inspirational and full of hope. Also the Taoisech, Enda Kenney, gave an arousing speech. A good day for Stephen to skip school. He was more interested in spotting the Secret Service, than in seeing Obama.


President Obama having a Guinness in a local Pub in Monygall, population three hundred

Ireland has a special place in American hearts. Over 10% or Americans are of Irish heritage. The Irish I know speak fondly of America. They often debate me in current events there, and most have either lived worked or visited there at one time or more in their lives. They all have relatives there. As Obama said, they are signatories on the Declaration of Independence. Gerard reminds me the architect of the White House was an Irishman.

The Queen of England also came to Ireland, last week. The last royal visit was when Ireland was still ruled by the English, King George V, in 1911. This was even bigger than the Obama visit. The Royals are a unique, anthropological sector of society. I went to a dinner meeting with the Connamara general practitioners at the Zetland Hotel in Cashel, not far from Carna.  Our menu read ''On occasion of her majesty's visit to Dublin. Recollections of the Vice Regal Tour in Connemara 1902 which consisted of his Excellency and the Countess of Dudley who remained in residence at the Zetland Hotel''. It was a regal evening for us physicians, 109 years later.  Part of the meeting was spent discussing the rural healthcare cutbacks imposed by the government austerity measures. There was a good presentation on Cystic Fibrosis, which has the highest rate in the world in Ireland. Genetic factor.

One might sum up the relationship between the Irish and the British as ''best of enemies''. After 800 years of brutal English rule, the Irish Republic achieved independence in 1922.  Now, there are 6 million people living in Britain with Irish ancestry, which is more than the current population of Ireland. As you recall, Northern Ireland remains British, hence there was the time there known as the Troubles, when there were IRA bombings. Peace came to Northern Ireland in the 1990's, although there still are occasional bombings. I will visit the Giant's Causeway there this summer, a magnificent coastal rock formation. My personal favorite English with Irish blood are John Lennon and Paul McCartney.

The Queen made all the right moves, earning more respect from the Irish. She humbly visited  Croke Park, where the ruling British killed 15 innocent people, still remembered by the name ''Bloody Sunday'', immortalized as well by U2. This location is now the Gaelic Athletic Headquarters, for Gaelic football and hurling. It is intimately bound up with the modern Irish identity. It originated to promote these sports, as well as Irish music, dancing and language.  The Queen also remembered the 50,000 Irish soldiers who died fighting for the Crown in WWI. Interestingly, Ireland remained neutral in WWII, I imagine as a self preservation measure. Most pundits, and the patients that I have seen, feel that the Royal visit did a fair amount to improving this relationship between the ''best of enemies''..

I saw a interesting article, coincidentally published recently, written in the USA 25 years ago, as an attempt to describe the Irish:

US HANDBOOK: “THE IRISH are an amalgam of many strains, often inconsistent and more often marked by contradiction,” according to US briefing documents produced 25 years ago.

The Defense Intelligence Agency, which produced a Cultural Behaviour Handbook for staff deployed here following Ronald Reagan’s visit to Ballyporeen, advised on the character of the Irish.

Its document, dated 1986 and now declassified, found the Irish “fatalistic and full of optimism; fiercely loyal and bitter rivals among themselves; proud and self-deprecating; fighters and kind of heart, sentimental and hard realists, maudlin and above all, mirthful”.

For all the country’s difficult history and then current problems, the handbook said the Irish people were “radiating a joy in life which comes straight from the heart”.

Author JE Craddock prefaced his 40-page document, which comes complete with extensive bibliography, with a disclaimer.
His work was “a humble attempt to capture the Irish character”, he said.

Its narrative, while striving to avoid condescension, chimes in with the Guinness-and-potatoes view of Ireland and describes a country, North and South, which has changed dramatically in the interim.

“The Gaels had lively imaginations and whimsical beliefs in the supernatural which remain to this day,” it found.

“An old Cork woman who was asked: ‘Do you believe in the fairies?’ replied, ‘I do not, but they’re there’.”

In another section on Irish social mores, the handbook declares “no other institution is of greater social significance than the Irish pub”.

“ . . . the pub is a place to socialise, where the men often go for relaxation at the end of a long work day before going home.

“Dinner, as we know it has already been served in the early afternoon, and the evening ‘tea’ consisting of cold cuts and other light snacks is not usually served until 9-10pm.”

Analysing the succession of invasions, rebellions, wars, settlements and disasters, the handbook attempts to explain what the author clearly saw as the riddle of the Irish outlook – particular regarding our nearest neighbour.

“It was in the time of Elizabeth I that there was laid the foundation of traditional Irish hatred for governing Englishmen,” Craddock opined, “which was to remain so deep in Irish consciousness”.

On religion, the handbook emphasises the “deeply-felt respect for cloth by Irish Catholics,” but it also detected “a growing willingness to abandon the rigidity of some formal church positions”.




Sunday, May 22, 2011

Steve and Dara at Callowfinish, Roundstone drive

































Steven and Dara, his Irish friend and classmate, got together today for some pool and a beach walk. They played a few games at Mac's Pub, while I enjoyed a pint. Then we went to Callowfeenish beach, which is a mile from our house. The tide was out, so there was lots to explore. The wild yellow Iris fields greeted us as we arrived. The wildflowers are really showing now, around the countryside. April was great, mostly sunny. May has been mainly rainy, but, like yesterday, you can have a Force 10 storm, then a few hours later, the sun is out, and the skies are blue. Today, it is pretty, but windy. Probably 20 mph on the beach.  The winds cancelled the Ros Muc Hooker races, which Paris and I wanted to watch. Fortunately, the races are every weekend this summer, at different coastal towns. We saw some clam shells that look like what we call razor clams. Also, some small steamers. Steve found a neat quartzite (per Summer, who is studying geology today) rock. Amazingly, there were perhaps 2 families on the whole beach.

 Yesterday, after the storm, I took a scenic drive to Roundstone, 27 km away. The wild Rhodies are blooming, mainly purple, and a few pink. I saw a couple of nice thatched roof houses. There is a big waterfront house in Roundstone that Michael Flaherty, the famous Irish dancer owns. The evening prior, Justine and I went to Roundstone, for a rare evening out away from the kids. We had a nice seafood meal at O' Dowds. On the twilight return drive, we spotted a red fox and her baby in the road. The baby fox was probably 16 inches long! I attempted to photograph it, but they were pretty fast. Justine heard that a local resident here feeds a fox, so I may ask to visit them.

Well, the kid are cramming for tests, they head back to the states in less than 2 weeks! They'll spend over a month in PA. with their grandparents, aunts and uncles there, before getting back to WA. I will remain here until mid August, so plenty more blogs, as I venture around Eire every weekend that I am not on call. Lots of countryside to see. Justine and Steve are off to Dublin tomorrow, to catch Obama's visit. His mom's ancestors are from Ireland. Also, the Queen of England was just here for a 4 day visit, the first in one hundred years. Relations are slowly improving between the 2 countries, after eight hundred years. Will blog her visit later. Also, I am STILL sorting Venice and Rome photos.....

Tuesday, May 10, 2011

Greg's Clinic

Carna Clinic


Gerard Hooke MD

Alison, Maureen and Sandra

Greg with patient


Irene, community nurse


Deirdre, clinic nurse

Johanas, nurse at Carna Nursing Home

CArna Nursing Home

Nursing Station, Carna Nursing Home


Saol fada chugat
 Long life to you



I suppose the weirdest thing I do in clinic is drain blood from people. You may recall that this was done hundred's of years ago, with the mis conceived notion that draining blood from a sick patient would rid them of the disease. Unfortunately, as we now know, making someone anemic when they are sick, is contrary to good medicine. Do no harm, is our promise. Hemachromatosis is a genetic disease of iron overload, where the body is unable to dump excess iron. The normal iron levels are under 200, here I have seen levels over 1,000. This is toxic to the heart and other organs. The solution is to bleed off pints of blood, following the iron level down to 50. We service a catchment of perhaps 3 thousand patients, and hundreds carry the hemachromatosis gene, which makes this population a geneticists dream.

I get to do prenatal care, but not deliveries, which was my favorite part of medicine in the USA. Here, deliveries are done in Galway, 1.5 hours away. The family physician and the OB co manage the prenatal patient.The hospital labor and deliveries are managed mainly by nurse mid wife, who will call the obstetrician if there are any complications, or if it is a privately insured patient, at the time of pending delivery. Nationally, most patients are on a public insurance plan. It is a good plan, except for specialty referrals, which can take months to years, due to access issues (some specialists not taking public insurance, and doctor shortages, same as in the USA).

Home visits are a big part of my job. I will often do 2 home visits in a day, along with seeing a full day's worth of clinic patients, and making a daily visit to the nursing home. Finding the house is the hardest part. Here, the Irish sense of direction is not great. There is definitely a cultural difference in how they describe a location. Typically, I will end up in the general area, and still have to ask 2 more people for local directions. I have so far, not scraped my car on a rock wall. Often, the roads are quite narrow, so you always park strategically, in able to exit more easily. Most homes have cats or dogs, who are outside. They are always friendly and hungry for attention. The houses are small, by American standards, and cosy. They are well kept, and during winter, the stove or fire is always going. TV is quite popular, with a wide variety of programming. The weather is as big of a topic on home visits, as it is at clinic visits. I get very accurate forecasts report from the patients, as many are farmers and fisherman families. They often have cows, donkeys, sheep, chickens and horses. I usually am offered a cup of tea, and biscuits (cookies). Sometimes, I have to call the ambulance, which, unless it is on a run, is 45 minutes away. I will wait and follow the vitals if they are sick. They need a written report before going to the ER, or they will be charged one hundred euros. There is BLS and ACLS transport available.

I have seen a wide variety of patients in the clinic. People that would normally go to the ER in the states will here see me instead, due to the cost, and proximity issues. Fractures are pretty common, we splint them and send in, as they need X rays, and casting. Lacerations are also common, which we repair, which is fun. I see a lot of respiratory infections, and the patient or parent usually expects an antibiotic. Historically, this may have been the approach due to access issues. I do my best to educate the patients about the difference in treatment for a viral vs. a bacterial infection, with predictably variable response. Sometimes, if I refuse to prescribe, the patient will be back with the same cold a day or 2 later, asking me or another doctor for antibiotics, saying I told you so....

I have one office/exam room, and no medical assistant or nurse. I do the vitals, blood draws, EKG, injections of joints, and medications like B12, antibiotics, and sometimes immunizations. A favorite injection is Diclac 75mg IM, which is an injectable Ibuprofen like medication. It works very well for pain. You can even give it to the elderly, as it bypasses the stomach. We do have a nurse once a week, who does a lot of the repeat labs (INRs, etc) and childhood immunizations.  I have re learned the art of blood draws and other procedures which I had not done for twenty years. There are a lot of eye related issues, I have learned how to remove foreign bodies, and diagnose serious eye pathology. I have seen retinal artery occlusions (not good),  and bad eye infections requiring hospitalization. In the states, I would have much easier access to send patients to a specialist quickly. I can only order Xrays, not ultrasounds, or other imaging tests. The specialist has to see the patient first, so there can be a delay in diagnosis. I would debate if this policy actually reduces costs. Some specialists (consultants) take months to see (unless private insurance)so a patient getting sick is sent to the ER. Once admitted, they get all necessary testing and treatment, fixing the problem. Contrary to the in states, they will get any other issues evaluated and treated too. It is sad when you expect cancer, and a patient is not sick enough to become inpatient, and you have to wait for the specialist appointment. Medications are covered, and there are more choices then in the states. There are some useful medications here which I have never seen, including injectable NSAIDs as well as topical NSAIDS. Also, more diabetic drugs, including an oral form of Byetta. We had a dispensary here, where we would give out the medications. It was quite handy, although a bit of work. When the Chemist (pharmacist) came and opened a pharmacy, we stopped routing medication distribution. Now, only in emergencies do we distribute medications.

There is a lot of high cholesterol, but interestingly not nearly as much obesity. Certainly the Irish meat and potatoes diet effects the lipids. People here are fairly active, and food is expensive (except potatoes) and it is sold and served in small portions. Costco would not make it here. I did hear they are planning a store in England. We buy our fresh fish at the post office, as the postal clerk's son fishes locally. I pay ten euros for around 3 pounds, a good deal. It is a variety of white fish. When the weather is bad, there is no fish for sale.

I have seen a variety of cancers. Colon cancer is fairly common. There are some smokers, but a pack is about eight euros, which is over ten dollars. At times, it seems like there is a lot of pathology here, but I think that is because we see all patients first. Recently I had the Coast Guard helicopter evacuate a critical patient, due to ambulance delay. They landed in the football field, it looked like half the town showed up to see what the racket was all about. Apparently, this was a rarely used transportation mode. I had to justify the life or death severity of the situation, hearing that it would be an expensive choice. This case had an unfortunate outcome.

There is a lot of heart disease. I have seen mild and severe heart attacks, some made it, and some did not. Historically, there have been cases here as young as age thirty. I would have hardly considered that diagnosis in my differential, until coming here. People know that if they have a heart attack here, we will do our best to help them, but due to the time it takes for the ambulance to get here and take them to the hospital, if they are bad off, they may not make it.

The patients always ask me how I like it here, my answer is that I like it because everyone is so friendly to our family, including our kids classmates, and the area is quite pretty. I mention my love of photography, with lots of opportunities for that expression. The first six months, our kids wanted to go home. Now, they want to stay longer! They have good friends, and they really like the beaches around here. The water is still to cold to swim in, but great in the Summer. The winter was harsh, similar to Washington, with buckets of rain,wild wind and many cloudy days. What is different about the Spring is that it may rain then sun, multiple times a day. Not to many 'dirty' days, as a local said.

Some of the younger children only speak Irish, as their parents try to get them fluent early. They teach Irish in all the schools, so most of the children are fluent. I would say that most parents speak Irish in the house, but English is not a very distant second. Ireland is trying hard to preserve their language. There are roadside signs around Connamera that say "An Gaheltach" which means 'Irish speaking region'. The only relatively local radio station broadcasts in Irish. They play some great traditional music. I am collecting some incredible local traditional music preformances, I may have to link the videos to this blog, which does not support videos well. There are 2 Irish words the kids use when describing their respiratory infections: smuish (nasal mucous), smuguis (phlegm). Also, bunyak is diarrhea.


We use paper charts, and an old electronic health records computer program. I print out prescriptions at my desk, and just hand to the patient, who sits opposite me. Patients lift up their shirt for their lung and heart exam, with out my prompting. Many of the women pull a bottle containing urine out of their pocket, even if they are not sick. I just check it with the chemistry dip stick next to my desk. They often will say ''I think I have a kidney infection''. Pain is much easier to deal with here-patients are stoic, and they don't want medication. You may convince them to take an NSAID, but they wouldn't take anything stronger. Contrast this to the states, where everyone seems to want narcotics for their pain. This is a noticeable cultural phenomena, a real eye opener. The Irish seem to function fine this way. As mentioned, I use an injectable NSAID frequently for pain.

I do see alcohol related medical issues here, although I don't think they are significantly different then in the states. Last week, I saw 2 patients with severe illness as a consequence of drinking. I think it is a challenge here, being rural and especially now with a recession and high unemployment, there can be more idle time and probably more drinking. The pubs are where people go to chat with each other, a part of the culture, especially here, where there are not many social venues. Some nights, there is great Irish music at the pubs, good craic. I see patients who say they used to drink, then they realized that was getting old, so they quit, or at least moderated. It can be an issue with the teens, although I saw this in my own upper middle class neighborhood, growing up near Seattle.

I am fortunate to work with two excellent physicians, Dr. Casey and Dr. Hooke. They both have loads of experience, and I can consult with them (either by phone when I am solo, or in person) on challenging patient situations. You tend to figure things out here a lot more then in the states, where the specialist is nearby. I use UpToDate, an excellent subscription based online physician reference, near daily. Yesterday, I was reading about coagulopathies, for instance. It feels like I have seen more pathology here in 6 months, then what I would see in a few years, at my Community Health Clinic, in the states, where there always is significant pathology. I think this is in part because I do more well child checks there, whereas here, everyone that comes to see me, has a medical complaint. Also, patients see me first, regardless of the need to go to the ER.  I pronounced another patient this week, something that I would rarely do in the states. Today was fairly typical: Some interesting patients: I sent a woman to the ER for a headache, with half her tongue numb and gait imbalance. I also sent in a teenager with an impressively painful hip, as he might have an acute slipped femoral head, or joint infection, which are devastating if not caught right away. I also removed a corneal foreign body. I saw a patient at the nursing home whom I put in an IV with antibiotics for pneumonia.

Irene is the part time public health nurse associated with the clinic. She spends most of her time in the field, doing home visits, especially with the elderly. She does education and wound care, and she gives the doctors valuable insight into how the patient is living and coping with their illness.

Didi is our part time clinic nurse. She gives a lot of the childhood immunizations, does INR and other bloods on some days, does phlebotomy on iron overload patients, and does PAPs which the Irish call smears. The photo shows her at the nursing home, where she goes weekly for whatever bloods are needed.

Alison is the long time Clinic Manager. Her duties are to long to list. She has been incredibly helpful in my transition here. Maureen, Sandra and Elaine work in the front office with the usual duties. They also run the sed rates.

I enjoy near daily rounds at the fifty bed nursing home. It is located near the sea, and there are probably more one bed than two bed rooms. On Christmas and St. Patrick's Day, all the residents had a drink. The local children came in and preformed traditional music and dancing. Some of the residents like to sit in the grand entrance area, watching people coming and going. I get some nice greetings and waves as I enter. Everyone goes to a communal dining area for meals. After a meal, the folks sitting by the entrance typically have nodded off. They will also hang out in an activities room, where there are optional hobbies, and television in the background. The toughest part to handle is patients who pass away.

Like most nursing homes, there is a lot of idyll time. The residents get great attention, from an international staff. The staff includes representation from Germany, Poland, India and France. Nurses will come here from abroad for a few years commitment, then go to the big city for more money. It is a great place to train, as one gets lots of exposure with the residents. I have improved my IV, EKG, blood drawing and code skills. Also, you can treat sick people here, to a degree, as there is skilled support staff, but it forces you to think about what you can and cannot safely do, in a non hospital setting.

I get phone calls when on call. Sometimes they just hang up after I identify my self. They are loyal, to a fault. They often want Dr. Casey, who is the original doctor for this area. Sometimes they will call back, having weighed their illness and the prospect of seeing "the new doctor from the states". They are always respectful. I try to meet them at the clinic, four miles away, otherwise I go to their house. There are not to many nuisance calls.

It has been rewarding working here. Certainly a change from the clinic that I have worked at for the last 18 years, in Marysville, north of Seattle. It is good to challenge oneself, career wise. I am wiser from this work experience. I have more skills, and confidence. I will be more frugal with resources upon my return. I have made a lot of friends, from the perspective of knowing people and their families, and sharing conversations about their life.

There is a new website http://conamaragaeltacht.com/ which was locally created, with government funding, to promote the area. Many of the photos on it are mine.

Tuesday, April 19, 2011

A Sunny Day

Connamara
Sky Drive, Clifden


Inagh Valley, Connamara

Youth musician, Clifden Traditional Music Festival


Kylemore Abby and boat

Clifden

Carrach

Roundstone

Pier at Roundstone

Old boat near Cashel

Low tide, Callowfenish, Carna


Shells, Callowfenish




Stephen catching shrimp

Justine's mom Jose, and sister Judy

Here are photos from a drive in Connamara, and a sunny day today around the towns of Roundstone and Carna. Enjoy!